Archive for August, 2008

Epic Summer Biking

Saturday, August 23rd, 2008

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What do CBMG guides do on their days off? They go out and play. Last week I hit the single track with local hardman/alpineer manager Jason Wahl and CB Nordic coach Jenny Abraham for some classic Crested Butte riding. Below are some photos from our link-up of the 401 and 403 trails. They re-affirm why we all love to live and recreate here in the Butte.

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 Jenny making the climb to the “Top of the World” on the 403 

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Jenny face deep in flowers on the 403 trail 

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Johnny tearing down the 401            

 Posted by John MacKinnon        


Off the beaten path in the Alpine

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008

As most of the front-range received a significant dump of snow (CB was spared), it feels a little like fall here in the Gunnison valley. Cool overnight temps and brisk mornings in the high country and perfect conditions for rock climbing down in the Taylor and Black Canyons.

I had the good fortune of checking out the latest in gear last week in Salt Lake City at the Outdoor Retailer show (blog entries from my site here), but all that dorking-out made me really want to get home and back into the high country.

For me, most of the summer work in Crested Butte involves the use of ropes and techy climbing gear.  Occasionally though we get some guests who are interested in seeing what the Butte has to offer in terms of wilderness hiking and I get passed the baton. Because I’m generally not one to get excited about staying on the beaten path, CBMG guest David and I have been pioneering some exciting new alpine excursions.

We ended up completing what should be an instant classic the “Complete Scarp Ridge Traverse”. Check out a portion of the topo below… With a little ingenuity and the willingness to get off-trail many variations and options are available on this adventure.

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A portion of the Scarp Ridge Traverse

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Approaching the complete Scarp Ridge Traverse

David was interested in training for an intense Aspen round-trip adventure involving consecutive CB-Aspen haute hiking, so we designed a custom hiking progression to challenge Dave and show him some more obscure spots.

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The view from the start of the ridge

We’re off to Aspen tomorrow and then returning on Thursday. For me this will be a perfect transition into a busy fall season…

Stay tuned for Blogs about CBMG guides’ fall adventures!

Mike Bromberg


Sangre Mountaineering with Dave and Dave

Tuesday, August 5th, 2008

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Dave and Dave returned to the mountains with CBMG guide John MacKinnon to tackle several more technical fourteeners. This time they headed southeast to the Sangre de Cristo Range for some superb scrambling on the Sangre’s famed conglomerate rock. The three hiked into South Colony Lakes to set up basecamp and had a little competition with the locals for campsites!

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 Day two brought an early morning alpine start and a summit bid for Crestone Peak. The three left camp at 3:00 am and made the trek up to 12,900 ft to the top of Broken Hands Pass and then descended back down 12,300 ft to Cottonwood Lake. John, Dave and Dave then began the long climb up the Red Couloir to the summit of Crestone Peak at 14,294 ft.

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The three carefully descended the mixed snow and rock gully and made an attempt on the infamous Crestone Traverse. Although they didn’t complete the traverse, they saw some remote and rugged terrain and decided to make a rare ascent of the jagged Black Gendarme.

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 The trio returned to camp tired and hungry but ready for another day of recreating in the majestic Sangres. Day three arrived bright and early with a 4 am departure for Crestone Needle, 14,197 ft. They headed back up Broken Hands Pass to climb the Needle via the Standard Route or South Couloir. Lou Dawson describes the route as “of all the fourteener trade routes, this one has the longest section of real hand and feet climbing.” 

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The three moved quickly and efficiently through the 4th class terrain and reached the summit in the early morning sun.

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 At the summit, perhaps it was due to the lack of oxygen, the Daves decided they wanted to bag Humbolt later that day. The three headed back down the South Couloir and made their way back to Broken Hand Pass. The three days climbing in Aspen and the two days scrambling in the Sangres really showed as Dave and Dave skillfully downclimbed and made quick work of their descent. Their footwork, balance and confidence improved greatly during their stint on technical fourteeners and hopefully they will continue to hone their technical mountaineering skills. At basecamp everyone refueled and geared up for the hike up Humbolt Peak, 14,064 ft.

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Although not technical, Humbolt provided a challenge for tired legs. The three made the summit by climbing over 2,000 vertical feet in just about two hours. The hike was an excellent capstone experience as it provided amazing views of the previous climbs, the basecamp, the surrounding mountains and even Dave’s white truck. The three returned back to camp for a celebratory feast and a long night’s rest. They hiked out the next morning and Dave and Dave headed back to Kansas.

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 Congratulations gentlemen on your 35th and 37th fourteeners. It was my pleasure running around the Sangres with you all. All of us at CBMG look forward to seeing you again.

Your Guide  John MacKinnon  


Taylor Canyon Intro to Trad

Monday, August 4th, 2008

Bluebird weather in Taylor Canyon

Another bluebird day in Taylor Canyon

As the busy summer season slows ever so slightly here in Crested Butte, we often have the opportunity to create custom instructional courses for our guests. Last week, the Kruglak father-daughter duo spent three days learning the basics of Traditional climbing in the beautiful granite paradise of Taylor Canyon.

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reaching for the “jug”

With the “fall out of the car” approaches allowing us to almost belay from the car and splitter high quality granite, Taylor is a great place to hone your traditional multi-pitch skills.  Most of the taylor canyon climbing ranges from one to three pitches in length and many routes boast clean smooth crack climbing.

My guest regularly climb on the cliffs of the Potomac, so we focused on developing skills that they can apply to climbing at their local crag. This included: lowering from above and top-belay systems, the lead climbing sequence, rappelling, and of course gear placement and removal in the context of some multi-pitch classics.

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Bringing up the second after a ‘mock’ lead

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Belaying off the Anchor

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An expertly rigged rappel setup

While we know there is more to traditional climbing than can be mastered in a few days, we built upon solid foundational concepts. The great summer weather coupled with positive attitudes and a genuine desire to learn, contributed to three great days on the rock.

Rappeling down with the setting sun

Rappelling with the setting sun

Fall is just around the corner and for CBMG guides this means it’s time to Climb! Contact us today to set up a custom multipitch climb.

-CBMG guide Mike Bromberg