Another new ski season is upon us here at Crested Butte Mountain Guides, and thus us guides have been excited about some of the latest and greatest in backcountry ski gear on the market this year. With last week’s industry gathering at the Annual Winter Outdoor Retailer Show in SLC, now was as good a time as any, to share some thoughts and picks on what new gear for 2010/2011 we are using out and about in the Elk Mountains everyday.

This year, I tried hard to keep the new gear to a minimum, but of course there were a few items that seemed to be very innovative and worth taking a gander at their performance. First up is my newly received, Dynafit TLT5 Mountain, ski-touring boot. More of a “ski shoe” really then a “ski boot”, these things are light…..and at about 5 lbs for the pair….I mean light ! They are also undoubtedly, white. White is light, and light is right, I suppose? So far, I’ve only had a handful of days on them and am already wondering about their durability to 100+ backcountry ski touring days a gear, as they don’t seem like they have enough beef to handle the use and abuse that my workhorse Black Diamond Method Boots have stood up to. Even so, they tour really really well….almost more like a nordic ski boot then an alpine touring boot, and they ski surprisingly well for being so minimal. They seem to ski quite a bit stiffer then other super lightweight boots in their category like the Scarpa F1.

Though they don’t give up much for the way down, they do indeed compromise in warmth and comfort, as these things are quite cold and very tight fitting. The same size shell as my BD boots, but almost 20mm smaller boot sole length, means alot less plastic, which on cold Colorado ski days, means cold feet…even with my heated footbeds, my toes were cold in these things.

Overall, an exciting new addition to the guide quiver this year, and one that I think will really excel as a spring ski mountaineering boot. Where steep bootpacks, rock scrambling, and big alpine tours will all be prime terrain for these ‘ski shoes’.

Second, is another entry into the avalanche airbag backpack system, BCA’s Float 30 Pack. Over the years I’ve used the ABS Airbag system, and just this year also tested out the SnowPulse Airbag Pack. The BCA Pack is by far, I think, the best thing going on the market. Best off, the compressed air cartridge is easily refilled at any scuba/dive shop, or as is the case here in Crested Butte, with a tank adapter…at the local fire dept. Therefore, it is easy to deploy and refill with minimal hassle and cost….not so with the ABS Pack. The backpack itself is actually very comfy for how heavy it is, and though the metal waist buckle takes a while to get used too (as the other airbag packs have) it is a cinch once familiar with it. The trigger pull has a nice stash pocket on the shoulder strap so can easily be stowed away or opened for deployment. The pack body itself is a little awkward and cumbersome, but all the airbag pack systems seem to be. It is 30L, and is maxed out for a day of backcountry ski tour guiding...making it not an option for the slightly heavier and more intensive ski mountaineering gear kit. It also has some awkward use of space…making it hard to utilize all the avaialable packing space. My biggest gripe is the separate shovel blade, shovel handle, and probe pockets…as I like to have all my avy rescue tools in 1 easily accessible pouch or pocket and this pack makes you divide into 3.

Overall though, despite the space and packing drawbacks, it is incredibly comfy, less bulky to wear then the SnowPulse and more user friendly then the ABS and the gripes are minor considering the statistics that this is the most likely tool to save a person’s life if caught in a slide, with an almost 97% success rate. I’ll put up with a less then perfect pack knowing that ultimately it is none of these features that will save my life, but the all important airbag and integrated compressed air canister that really matters.

Third, and last on the list, is actually an item from this past summer that I’ve found excels just as much, if not better, in the winter here in the Colorado backcountry….our Mammut Brisk Jkt guide uniforms. This thing is awesome, and our guides have been wearing it from Crested Butte, to Ouray, Indian Creek, the Cascades, and is likely destined for Chamonix & Valdez this Spring. This thing is versatile. Made of a thin but warm, windproof and breathable Gore Windstopper it is the perfect layer for any aerobic outdoor activity. Warm enough to go backcountry skiing in during the winter and shed light snow and wind with aplomb, it is still thin and stretchy enough to take on an alpine rock route, a cool day Rockclimbing in the Black Canyon or Indian Creek. It has an abrasion resistant face that doesn’t snag on rock, and the elastic cuffs and hem make for low bulk underneath gloves and a harness when rock or ice climbing…or ski mountaineering for that matter. Finally, a tall collar makes for comfortable carrying of, over the shoulder rope coils while working, and the pit zips allow for easy temperature regulation without changing layers.

Overall, a very solid and functional jacket, that is a staff favorite for as the go-to piece for the variety of guided activities we do…whether as a stand alone jacket or a mid-layer on really cold, slow moving avalanche course teaching days…this thing is the s%*t !

—CBMG Lead Guide, Jayson Simons-Jones

We are just freshly back from an incredibly cold and windy expedition to climb Mexico’s famous volcano, Pico de Orizaba, the 3rd highest peak in North America at 18,600′.

First off, let me start by saying that this is not the Mexico that you read about in the news today. We were in some great small desert/mountain farm towns east of Mexico City, interacting with some extremely friendly and generous locals, that were very excited to see Western ‘touristas’ in their small towns, and made sure we had a great and safe experience in their country.

Most Mexicansknow what is portrayed in the Western news about their country and its violence, and in the parts where we were travelling (outside Mexico City, of course) it seemed as though they very much wanted to show us outsiders that this is not the majority of the country or it’s people, and this is indeed what we found spending a week amongst them.

Roberto ‘Oso’ Rodriguez of Orizaba Mountain Guides ran some great and seemless logistical support for us while we were down there, allowing our small group, (of CBMG Guests Dean Kurth & Josh Levine, along with CBMG Guide, Jayson Simons-Jones), to stay focused on the climbing and acclimatization plan, and not worry about the logistical difficulties of transport and such throughout Mexico.

After a late night arrival in Mexico City and a stay in a hotel we quickly made an exit out of the city for the small town of Huamantla and the small volcanic peak of La Malintze (14,650′), for our first acclimatization mission.

Staying in cabins run by the Mexico National Park system at the base we enjoyed some relaxing meals in the local restaurant run by the local family and went through the mandatory packing and last minute gear shuffles.

Day 3 we went on an acclimatization hike to climb La Malintze (14,560′), an extinct volcanic peak, known by local legend as a woman that was known to be the lover/mistress of the great Spanish conquistador and explorer, Cortez. A fairly straightforward and steep hike of 4,000′ brought us to the small rock summit where we were also joined by one of the many local Mexican street dogs.

Summitting in a mix of clouds and sunshine we were treated to awesome views of the surrounding countryside, as well as our main objective, the towering volcanic mountain, Pico de Orizaba off in the distance.

After finishing our climb of La Malintze, our driver, Ruiz, shuffled us off to the small town of Tlachichuca, at the base of Orizaba, where we would make last minute preparations for our climb. After enjoying a nice dinner ina small ocal family style restaurant of great authentic Mexican food we sorted rations, got water and gas for the stoves and commenced packing for our departure to the Piedre Grand Hut on Orizaba.

Day 4 we left early for the burly 2 hour and uber-dusty 4wd jeep road ride to the hut at 13,900′. Once arriving here we got situated at the hut withour local hut assitant’, Juan, for watching our gear and such while we climbed and familiarized ourselves with the area by hiking up to high camp in the afternoon at 15,000′.

Day 5, instead of attempting an immediate summit dash, we opted to rest and continue acclimatizing to the high altitude after a fairly restless sleep and spent the day just wandering around between 14 & 15,000′ feet and resting at the hut, chatting with other climbers, practicing our Spanish speaking skills with the locals, and taking in the awesome views of the cloud enshrouded state of Veracruz off to the East.

Day 6, Summit Day ! After a brief  ”sleep” from 6pm till midnight we awoke to howling winds at the hut and left by 1:30 am for our attempt at the summit. The hike from camp til 15,500′ was cold and windy but nothing like the incredibly fierce weather we encountered once we got out the crampons and ice axe, and rope for the steep snow climb through the area known as the ‘Labyrinth’.

Here, in the dark of the night, we were continually hammered by spindrift, snow, and wind gusts approaching 50 mph, strong enough to knock us around and off our feet occasionally….but….we decided to go as high as we could until the conditions became unbearable.

Upon reaching the toe of the Jamapa Glacier at 16,400′, we were greeted with even stronger winds and cold also coming off the glacier, and the first of the local guided parties decided to turn around at this point, after all 3 of them had been knocked down by the strong gusts of winds. However, we decided we would keep going…how much worse could it really get, we were mountaineering in Mexico after all, not on Denali?

As we began the climb up the 35 degree icy glacier we were treated to an awe inspiring sunrise high on this volcano, towering almost 10,000′ above the surrounding dusty and dry Mexican countryside, a truly surreal mountaineering experience. Unfortunately, the higher we went of course, the colder and windier it got, to the point where all our food and water was frozen, even the stuff buried 7 layers deep in clothing did not stay unfrozen !

At 17,750′ and 8 hours into a very challenging climb the consistent and relentless wind and cold took over, as one party after another dropped off behind us, we made the decision along with another party of 2, that it was time to call it quits. Winds on the crater ridgeline we estimated to be approaching 100 mph, and we were already tired and exhausted from battling constant 40-50 mph wind and cold with wind chill near -20F for the previous 5 hours, so enough was enough…after all, we still had to get back down safely.

All in all, that day proved to be very trying alpine conditions, even in a seemingly benign environment like Mexico, and all 18 people that attempted the summit that day, including 3 guided parties were turned back by the brutal cold and wind.

We took solace in the fact that we had gotten as high as anyone that day, reaching just under 18,000′  feet as our high point, and headed down still happy and smiling with the satisfaction of a very hard and challenging day in the mountains, and one that generated a bunch of well earned respect, both in terms of personal goals and achievements, and in regards to the awesome power of the world’s big mountains.

Unfortunately, we were now out of time, and another attempt at the summit was not available to us, so we hopped a quick ride down the mountain back to Tlachichuca for a celebratory dinner.

An early morning ride through the Mexican countryside back to the Mexico City airport the next day, sent everyone back to the states without achieving our goal of reaching the summit, but somehow still feeling very content and fulfilled in terms of the experience of mountaineering and it’s associated challenges, beauty, and camaraderie. 

 Looking forward to going back again in 2012….though hopefully in calmer conditions.

-CBMG Guide (Jayson Simons-Jones)

Backcountry Ski Touring w/ Crested Butte Mountain Guides from CB Mountain Guides on Vimeo.

Longtime CBMG Guest, Jason Leonard, had a phenomenal week of Holiday Skiing with CBMG Guide, JSJ, in the Crested Butte Backcountry in preparation for their Alaska Ski Mountaineering trip this Spring.

-CBMG