Archive for the ‘Mountaineering’ Category

Hello Spring

Thursday, March 21st, 2013

The first day of spring was yesterday.  This is what the 2nd day of spring looked like in Crested Butte this morning.  Go figure.

Spring doesn't always show up on time at 9,000 feet.

Ahh spring, you gotta love it … and we do!  Truth be told spring is actually a great time of year in Crested Butte.  Temps start rising, snow starts melting and everyone has SPRING FEVER!

Essentially the fence between winter and summer, spring is the only season where you can partake in just about any activity your heart desires.  Want to stick with bc skiing or transition into spring ski mountaineering?  No problem, the big lines you’ve been wistfully longing for all winter are finally yours for the taking thanks to the stable spring snow-pack.  Want to break the bike out of the garage and go for a spin? You betcha, the sweet single track at Hartman Rocks is ready to go.  Craving a paddling fix or a fishing session?  The spring melt-off is working it’s way into the Taylor and Gunnison rivers all the way down to Blue Mesa Reservoir.  Looking to work those atrophied arm muscles with some early season rock climbing?  Well, get after it then cause the sun-warmed rock walls of Taylor Canyon and the Black Canyon are waiting for you.

Earning spring season turns, ski mountaineering-style, in the Crested Butte backcountry.

 

Early season bike condtioning at Hartman Rocks.

 

Sun warmed walls of the Black Canyon.

At Crested Butte Mountain Guides we’ve got some awesome camps & clinics lined up for the spring season.  If ski mountaineering is your fancy you can choose from 4 different spring courses; April 2 – 6 and April 8 – 12 in the Chugach Mountains of Valdez, Alaska or April 18 – 21 and April 25 – 28 in our very own backyard, the Elk Mountains of Crested Butte, CO.  A skills intensive ski mountaineering course with CBMG is the very best way to take your skiing to the next level!

Ski mountaineering, Thompson Pass, Chugach Mountain Range, AK.

Ski mountaineering in the Elk Mountains, Crested Butte, CO.

If climbing is more your scene then join CBMG for desert rock climbing this spring.    The infamous towers of the Utah desert are a favorite among CBMG guides and we know the best of the best that Utah has to offer.  If you’re up for a little longer drive join us in Red Rocks, NV for some sweet climbing … and just outside of Las Vegas, who would have thought?!

Doesn't just looking at this make you feel warmer?

With spring comes a whole host of fun and quintessentially Crested Butte events.  It seems this time of year there’s an event just about every weekend!  The Red Lady Ball, which helps raise awareness and money for the on going Save Red Lady Campaign, was this past weekend, Mar 16.  This Sunday, Mar 24, we’re all looking forward to the 38th annual Al Johnson Telemark Race; a fundraiser for everyone’s favorite non-profit, the Crested Butte Avalanche Center. The following weekend, Mar 29, The Elk Mountain Grand Traverse  gets underway as teams battle it out in a ski race from Crested Butte to Aspen. Mar 31 brings the 22nd annual Extreme Free-skiing competition to town.  This is a 4-star qualifier stop on the Subaru Free-skiing Tour.  The resort closes on April 7, which as anyone knows is a party not to be missed.  Last but not least is a new event coming to Crested Butte, the Crested Butte Pole Pedal Paddle (CB3P), Apr 28.  The CB3P is a multi-sport race (ski leg, bike leg, kayak leg) that will span the length of Gunnison Valley, starting in Mt. Crested Butte and finishing in Gunnison.  Wow.

The best part about the events we mentioned above?  Well, in true Crested Butte fashion you can expect to see competitors and spectators alike in full-on costume for 4 of the 6 events (can you guess which ones?).  What can we say, Crested Buttians LOVE their costumes!

CB locals at the Al Johnson Tele Race, one of the many Crested Butte spring events that require costumes.

We hope you’ll join us this spring to partake in all the outdoor recreation fun that Crested Butte has to offer.  If you won’t be joining us for an adventure this spring we’ll look forward to seeing you at any number of the unique Crested Butte events … we’ll be in the ones dressed in tutus ; )

-CBMG Staff


Colorado Winter Climbing…

Wednesday, February 13th, 2013

Climbing cold blue ice under beautiful blue winter skies

Colorado is quite the ideal place to be based if you are a climber. First off, there is all types of climbing here in this great Rocky Mountain state. There are thousands of mountains throughout, offering all types of mountaineering and climbing objectives to a worthy summit. Some, suited best for trail running shoes and a light pack, others overnight, wilderness, technical objectives, and everything else in between.

Alpine winter summit climbing on Mt Crested Butte

Beneath all the lofty heights of the state’s great peaks, and for those more interested in technical difficulty over sizeable altitude and mileage, the state is littered with rocky hillsides, outcroppings, gorges, and cliff walls. And almost as varied as the type of climbing is the type of rock to climb on: granite, gneiss, alpine granite, sandstone (Eldo Canyon sandstone; Escalante Canyon wingate; Garden of the Gods soft sandstone; etc….)and more then my limited geology can understand.

Leading ice in the Ouray Ice Park

On par with all this variety is the stellar weather. 300+ days of sunshine a year, and enough climate variation that even in the dead, frozen cold of winter, within a day’s drive you can be climbing sunny warm rock somewhere. With that being said…the most important thing a Colorado climber needs to possess is a love of seasonal changes, and being willing to hunt for your preferred objective and medium. After all, Colorado is known for mountains, and skiing as well as climbing. And where those things reside, generally means a long, cold winter climbing season.

Ski Mountaineering on Mt Crested Butte's 'Guides Ridge' Route

So here in Crested Butte, Colorado, where winter can easily last 8 months a year, to be a climber one must learn to embrace winter climbing. Or, have a very flexible job and put a lot of miles in of windshield time. We prefer the former, and embrace the winter climbing season. One that brings different challenges, but with it more space for reward and more opportunities for the moments of grace and beauty that the mountain environment provides us with.

fresh ice

Alas, it is now Mid-February, and we have every so imperceptibly crested the heart of winter’s darkness. The days are becoming slightly longer, the sun’s angle slightly higher, and the temps slightly (and I mean slightly) warmer. Spring is slowly beginning to take shape on the horizon and plans are beginning to infiltrate our minds of warm, sunny, granite rock or desert sandstone to be climbed.

Winter mixed alpine climbing in Crested Butte, CO

However, we are in no rush to get there, as the one thing that always holds true will no doubt take effect again….change will inevitably come. In the meantime though, we will thoroughly be enjoying the depths of winter, climbing on frozen snowy peaks, watching the sun rise and fall from the sides of a mountain and taking joy in the way it’s light plays differently amongst a landscape coated with the sharpness of rock, ice, and snow, then it does with the softer, subtler colors of the warmer months.

Colorado Ice Climbing

We will continue to seek out freezing pre-dawn starts on snowy, rock strewn ridges, and will relish the joy of going to work and the challenge of sublime and quiet winter ascents of Mt Crested Butte’s ‘Guides Ridge’ Route, and more beyond. We will continue to seek out the frozen blue waterfall ice of the surrounding mountains and in the farmed ice of the Lake City and Ouray Ice Parks. Taking joy in introducing rockclimbers to the somewhat awkward but supremely focusing and enjoyable sport of ice climbing, and the feeling that comes with being half-way up a turquoise or fluorescent blue waterfall, looking down through your crampon frontpoints, and wondering how it can all be so beautiful and inspiring while also all being so intimidating and challenging.

Ski Mountaineering Crested Butte, CO

And of course, when not searching out every nook and cranny of the surrounding mountains for that ultimate, unfound, ephemeral flow of ice to climb, or winter ridge ascent to be had, we’ll be looking for that perfect, and ever-elusive, ‘ultimate powder run’, just out of our back door in the wonderful, Crested Butte Backcountry.

-Cheers, Jayson @ CBMG


Winter is off and rolling…..

Friday, January 11th, 2013

Crested Butte Mountain Guides humble 'Guide Shack' & World HQ's during the first snow of the season

The Winter Season of 2012/2013 has been off to a great start here in Crested Butte, with Crested Butte Mountain Guides having a guide calendar full of the variety of activities that we offer in the winter environment: AIARE Avalanche Education Courses; Backcountry Ski & Splitboard Tours; & Ice Climbing; as well as our short-format Intro To The Backcountry & Avalanche Refresher Courses.

Backcountry Skiing in Crested Butte, CO

The start to the Winter here in the Colorado Rockies was eerily similar to last year, with minimal snowfall, and fairly mild, sunny, and warm days. More akin to a late late Fall then early Winter. However, being located in the heart of the Elk Mountains at 9,000′ offers plenty of opportunities for the adventurous mountain athlete type, so in the absence of deep powder turns, we went in search of elusive and picturesque high country ice climbs.

Early season ice climbing in the Crested Butte backcountry

Early season ice Climbing in the Lake City Ice Park

And….although there were reports of lack of snow in the high country, there was enough. And we were able to get off and running on our full schedule or AIARE Avalanche Courses for the season, by running three Level 1 Courses, a Level 2 Course, and 2 Refresher Courses, as there was just enough snow to pull off a high-quality learning environment, see what a shallow snowpack means in terms of snow stability and avalanche assessment, and due to our guides intimate nature of our backyard…pull off some pretty darn worthy backcountry powder skiing and riding as well.

Students heading into the field for the touring day of an AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Course

Students evaluating snow on an AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Course

And then…..just in time for the holidays…..and just after we were getting accustomed to skiing off the big peaks to start the season……the big snows came. And by the start of the New Year, almost 5 feet of fresh powder had piled up in the Crested Butte backcountry making for some memorable powder turns to celebrate the holiday season with !

An early season ski descent off Gothic Mountain

Shredding the pow, toe-side down and knuckles draggin'

Great early season powder skiing in Crested Butte's backcountry !

Deep, deep holiday season backcountry turns

Sunrise from the skintrack while backcountry ski touring

With town and the surrounding mountains now covered in a thick blanket of white, and another forecasted major winter storm just taking shape outside now in Mid-January, we are well set-up to continue offering our busy calendar of events throughout the remainder of the winter season. 2013 has already started off with a plethora of sold out AIARE Level 1, Level 1 Hut Courses, Level 2, & Avalanche Refresher Courses…..

CBMG Guides & AIARE Instructors, Scott Krankkala & Ross Matlock, demonstrating snowpit evaluation to students on a Level 1 Avalanche Course

While we continue to introduce new folks to the thrill of winter ski touring in the backcountry through our 2-Day Intro To The Backcountry Courses. As well, as showing more seasoned vets great backcountry powder turns amidst the surrounding peaks.

Learning how to make turns in the backcountry

As we move into the heart of January, our popular guided backcountry ski & splitboard tours and hut trips are going out almost daily, and the conditions on the ‘Guides Ridge Route’ on Mt Crested Butte are in prime for an unforgettable winter ascent of our town’s namesake and iconic peak. A mix of rock, snow, and ice, this is an alpine climbing challenge, minutes from the lift and not to be missed.

Training for an ascent of Aconcogua on Mt CB's 'Guides Ridge Route' in full winter conditions

And….along with the heart of winter right around the corner, comes the heart of ice climbing season! This weekend is the world-famous Ouray Ice Festival, and we will of course be down there in Ouray with our tools, along with other ice climbers from around the world, looking forward to sharing this magnificent resource with those that are interested, as well as the lesser known, more adventurous, and way less crowded ice closer to our home in Lake City and The Black Canyon.

Practicing ice climbing technique in the Lake City Ice Park

Climbing Chipeta Falls in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Looking forward to the remainder of the winter season being just as filled with joyous and memorable moments as it has started with…..whether on the skintrack, waist deep in backcountry powder, amidst the green and blue ice of area waterfalls, or cozying up in a backcountry hut around the wood stove….life is good right now…..but don’t take our word for it….come see for yourself.

-CBMG Staff


Trail running and soul searching on the ‘Scoville Route’ on Precarious Peak (13,380′)

Monday, August 13th, 2012

Morning light illuminating the Elks Range from the summit of Precarious Peak (13,380′)

It’s easy to get stuck in a rut in our lives. It’s easy to slip into the known and the comfortable, no matter how ‘extreme’ we make ourselves out to be. Even the most motivated of us, still has room for daily ‘comfortable and easy’, because it’s too much work to break the mold and do something new.

The real work in doing NEW things, is less in the actual doing of them, and more in the vision, planning, and execution of something out of the ordinary. That takes real work….something a longtime guest of Crested Butte Mountain Guides, and recent ‘Honorary Guide’, Tom Scoville, knows a thing or two about.

Early morning rays illuminating Upper Rustlers Gulch

At 68 years young today, Tom has become a bit of a regular around the Crested Butte mountaineering & hiking community. Scaling all sorts of random and obscure peaks that he has the drive and motivation to seek out and attempt. Some guided, but many not, just with friends or even solo trips. Impressive in and of itself for the work involved, but made downright inspirational by the fact that Tom does all this after enduring 21+ surgeries to rebuild and treat certain joints caused by a genetic form of osteoarthritis. Knees…replaced. Hips…..replaced. Spine…..fused. Shoulders….yup, those too.

Tom Scoville in his element

So, you get the picture, and to be a bit understated….Tom is passionate about being in the mountains. Enough so that it is infectious, and can even rub off on us ‘been there, done that’ seasoned veterans and mountain guides as well. I came upon the good fortune to get to know Tom at Crested Butte Mountain Guides just 7 short years ago, when he was looking for help to complete a few of his last remaining climbs of Colorado’s famed 14ers….for the second time around !

Precarious Peak (13,380′), with SW Ridge in profile. Photo courtesy: Tom Scoville

So, this weekend, inspired by Tom and his vision to think outside the box and his current frustration at recent complications to a recent surgery (again), I would go and walk in his footsteps, so to speak, on something that is close to his heart….to show respect for someone that embodies motivation, determination, passion for the mountains, and has zero regard for being comfortable and easy in his life. I would repeat a route he studied, tried, tried again, and finally succeeded on, and one that possibly may have been overlooked by everyone until Tom’s vision prevailed.

The ‘Scoville – SW Face Direct Route’ ???

Precarious Peak is aptly named. It is a sheer and imposing 13,000′+ mountain, that seems to only be held together more by imagination then actual geologic structure. To be honest…it is a crumbling choss pile of talus and scree. Steep, remote, rugged, committing, and scary loose, it is arguably one of the hardest summits in Colorado’s Elk Mountains, a range famous for it’s towering but loose and dangerous mountains (think Maroon Bells). So of course, Tom Scoville, would have the drive and motivation to actually spend the time and energy potentially pioneering a new route up its SW Buttress that would allow him safer and quicker passage to the summit.

Up close and personal on the route

Was it an actual ‘first ascent’? Who really knows. There have been a lot of people climbing mountains in Colorado for a long time. But as far as I can tell in the local community around right now, no one else seems to recall seeing or hearing of anyone climbing this particular line, especially in summer. I certainly haven’t. So, off I went to repeat this route, and show him some respect for the inspiration and determination he has shown us younger generation of guides, mountaineers, and hikers in the Crested Butte area.

Looking back down from the ridgecrest….actually a pretty reasonable route

What I found was an awesome day alone, up high in the mountains that are my backyard. I watched the sunrise light up the mountains while on a morning trail run, stood on the summit of a semi-obscure, hard, and aesthetic peak in our local mountains, got a few great photos, and saw not another soul around, while having mostly perfect weather.

BUT…..what I really found, was a new perspective. The reminder that the hard work of having to think outside the box, and make yourself break the mold of comfortable and easy is always, always, worthwhile and rewarding. Even if the outcome doesn’t come to fruition. Fortunately, Tom’s eventually did.

Obligatory summit photo

So, on a rare day off in the summer guiding season, I left the rockclimbing gear for Taylor Canyon in the garage, let the mountain bike continue to gather dust, turned the cell phone off, grabbed my camera, some water, and running shoes, and followed the lead and inspiration of another. So thanks Tom, for helping me think outside the box, see our local mountains in a slightly different way, and at least follow in your footsteps….as lord knows I am definitely not tough or determined enough to literally walk in your shoes. This was a day when the teacher truly did become the student.

-Jayson Simons-Jones (CBMG Owner/Guide)