Archive for the ‘Rock Climbing’ Category

Another summer gone by . . .

Friday, October 9th, 2009

Well, it’s been a fast and furious summer around these parts. We started off with a cold and rainy June (we had June in January and January in June this year), and in a blink our leaves are already falling off the trees and you have to wear gloves in the morning when you’re biking to work. We’ve had a great season here at Crested Butte Mountain Guides, expanding and trying to grow the business while dealing with some tough economic times.
eos_guides_ridge

It’s been a record year for the Guide’s Ridge! It seems like every week we had a trip up to the top of Mt Crested Butte. From young teens to experienced climbers, this route has become a favorite and a ‘must-do’ in Crested Butte.

eos_bear_window
Also, we had not one, but two guides get their car windows smashed by bears while parked at trailheads. Johnny came back from a 5 day backpack trip to find his passenger side window in pieces and his head rest a little chewed up,  but the beers were safe! Jayson got back from Aspen to find his cab window gone with some muddy pawprints (I guess the bear couldn’t fit through that small window). Our office manager had a bear camped out in a tree across the street from her house for two days! CBMG did some benchtime brainstorming and came up with the possibility of doing ‘Bear Tours’ in the wee hours of the morning in Crested Butte in a open back jeep, Ian (the Aussie) narrating about bear behavior and feeding habits with a bear claw necklace hanging on his chest (ala ‘crocodile dundee’) and maybe a paintball gun . . . but that idea never really got off the ground (or off the bench, I should say. . .)

eos_peakotweek Peak of the Week did well in it’s inaugural year. Six weeks of peaks in the area including Baldy, Treasury, Augusta, Teocalli, Gothic, and Red Lady; look for this program again next year with more of the local mountains.  Philip Pixley from Canada joined us for a peak, as well as a trip up Guide’s Ridge and almost made it a triple header with a mountain bike ride!  He was incredibly impressed with Crested Butte’s plethora of trails and is already planning for next summer.

eos_snow_climb With our summer arriving late this year, lots of clients got some snow mountaineering practice.  From the S couliour to the back side of Treasury, guides were exploring snow routes throughout the valley.  Harry and Iris Lyall had a full week of climbing and mountaineering with Johnny MacKinnon and left with a new appreciation for the Crested Butte area as well as increasing their own outdoor skills.  In fact, we had quite a few clients this year that were looking to expand their own on-snow techniques and we were able to cater directly to the specific needs and skills of those people and help build their experience as well as confidence.

eos_jsj_thumb

One pleasant summer day, Jayson broke his thumb on an approach to a climb, went and got it set, and then managed to meet back up with Johnny and the clients in the afternoon.  Ian has come back strong from hip surgery in the spring venturing often with Tom Scoville, on of our longtime clients.  Hard to slow these guides down–they are pretty tough. . .

eos_ian_buddy

One of these things is not like the other. . . Actually what I like about this photo is Ian and the dummy having an eerily similar expression.  The dummy spent a few months on the Guide Shack bench with some people taking pictures with him, small children wondering if he was real, but most people being generally a little freaked out by him.  Our tongue in cheek promotion of sunscreen, he was inherited from CB Search and Rescue team and was found one morning in a compromising position on one of the benches in front of the Guide Shack (the shack is behind a popular CB bar. . .a lonely patron on their way home wanted a little company?). He was hence forth placed in the loft in the office, legs jutting out (still freaking people out).

eos_first_snoe

And we ended our season with the ‘When’s it Going to Snow Promo?’ with the blessed happening on September 20th.  Now we are all waiting for it to snow in earnest, but we’ll be perfectly happy with a warm dry fall into November (at least I will be happy).  Thanks to everyone who joined us for an adventure this season! We appreciate your continued support of our home grown operation and we look forward to more trips, adventures, excursions. . .whatever you may have in mind, in both Crested Butte and places beyond.


Black Canyon Season

Saturday, September 12th, 2009

blog_hale
It’s the season for pushing your limits in the Black Canyon. It’s a lesser known National Park that offers over 140 challenging climbs on the vertical walls above the Gunnison River. While mid-summer tends to be too hot to climb there, the fall offers a more pleasant climbing atmosphere. You sweat anyway climbing these routes (out of effort and adrenaline); no need to add scorching heat to the mix! Michael Hale joined us for a couple days of climbing, starting with a ‘warm-up’ trip up Guide’s Ridge:
blog_hale_gr
Then after a day of rest (rafting in Western Colorado!), Michael met Jayson again, this time in Crawford for a trip to the Black Canyon. One of the most challenging places on the Western Slope to climb, the Black Canyon can really push your limits as a climber. While not a place to explore on your own without a heavy background in climbing, with a trained guide you can explore this amazing venue from a vantage that not many people have experienced.
blog_hale_2


Alpineering on the Spring Creek Needle

Monday, August 10th, 2009

Karen and Miles have been climbing with CBMG owner, Jayson, for almost ten years but due to a recently dislocated thumb JSJ couldn’t go out with them last week. They have climbed practically every route at Taylor Canyon and Karen has even climbed in the Black. I was left with the daunting question of where to take them climbing…   

I elected to venture up Spring Creek and climb a prominent 5 pitch tower known locally as the Spring Creek Needle or as I like to call it The Aiguille de Spring Creek. Spring Creek is a lesser traveled climbing destination in Gunnison County and is heavily guarded by bushwacky approaches, exciting route finding and an alpine feel right off the road. 
The adventure began with a tenuous traverse over the Spring Creek on a large dead tree and continued with an off-piste hike to the base of the climb.
Once we got to the route, the climbing was fabulous adventure climbing on beautiful granite. We opted for a route called Indestructible II 5.8. The route has a bit of everything on it from crack climbing to steep juggy face climbing and some exhilerating scrambling.   

Here is photo of Karen on the arete that links the 3 and 4 pitches. Talk about exposure!   

I took this photo of Miles and Karen at the top of the last pitch of 5th class climbing, a beautiful 5.7 splitter hand crack up a clean slab. From here we short-roped up to the very airy summit of the needle. Thanks for a great day out there exploring some of the lesser traveled routes in area!
-Johnny

Kyle Mattingly takes local kid, Kai Sherman up Sunset Ridge

Thursday, July 23rd, 2009
 

CBMG Guide Kyle Mattingly took local 11 year old kid, Kai Sherman, up Sunset Ridge on Mt CB this last week for a new perspective on our town’s namesake peak. Although all of the locals look at this peak everyday, bike and hike around the base of it, and ski it’s legendary North Face in the winter, few have had the experienced the two routes that have become a popular CBMG trip this summer; Guide’s Ridge and Sunset Ridge. 

A direct view of Guide's Ridge with Sunset Ridge on the right
A direct view of Guide’s Ridge with Sunset Ridge on the right

So Kyle and Kai set off from the Guide Shack at 9am, jumped on to a Mountain Express bus (free!) and shuttled up to the mountain (also known as the town of Mt. CB).  From there it’s a scenic ride up the Silver Queen chair lift–although it’s always a little strange to ride the lift without skis attached to your feet. . .At the top of the lift it’s a short hike to where you rope up for the ridge. 

Kai on his way up Sunset Ridge

Kai on his way up Sunset Ridge

 

Although it’s an intimidating vantage from below, once you start on the ridge, you realize how accessible this route is.  By riding the lift, your approach is casual and the route up the ridge can be done in basic sneakers or approach shoes.  This route is a classic example of an excursion for people with hiking experience but with little or  no rope/harness skills to get out and push their limits a little with the assistance of a trained guide.  It’s also great for people with a rock climbing background to put those skills towards a summit.  Whatever your background, it’s incredibly comforting to have a qualified AMGA trained escort in terrain that has some consequence. 
Kai almost at the summit!

Kai almost at the summit!

 Kyle is always super psyched to go guiding and willing to go out with clients with only a moment’s notice.  Thanks Kai for being game for this climb.  We hope you enjoyed getting a new perspective on Mt. CB!

Kyle and Kai on the summit!

Kyle and Kai on the Summit!


Upcoming Women’s Climbing Series….

Tuesday, July 14th, 2009

Alison McGinty in Lake City

Next Monday evening starts our Women’s Climbing Series, which runs for 6 consecutive weeks every Monday evening after work from 4-9ish. This clinic will be taught by CBMG & AMGA Trained and Certified Guide Laura Chase. There are still a few spots available, so contact us for more info.

Kiryn Johnson rappelling

Also, coming soon…..1-day skill specific Women’s Rock Clinics and a HERA Climb Against Cancer Fundraiser in mid-August…

—CBMG Staff