Fall is near, and here at CBMG we can almost feel the red desert sandstone on our hands!  The stark desert moonscape of Moab, UT is not only breathtaking, it also hosts some of the best fall rock climbing in the Southwest.  Crested Butte Mountain Guides is excited to offer yet another year of trips on the iconic sandstone walls and towers that litter the area. 

Castleton Tower:

 Castleton tower is easily the most iconic and sought after tower in Moab.  It stands almost 400 feet above the desert floor, and hosts a number of classic routes.  Some of the best routes on the tower are North Chimney (5.8, 4 pitches), Kor Ingalls (5.9, 3 pitches), and North Face (5.11, 3 pitches).

The Rectory:

 The rectory is a large rock formation that sits right across a knife-edge ridge from Castleton.  On its narrowest face, a perfect splitter crack goes straight up for 4 pitches of jamming bliss.  This route is called fine jade (5.11a, 4 pitches) and should not be missed.  You get a little bit of everything on this route, from fingertip jams to off width, and you will be grinning from ear to ear the whole way!

 Sister Superior (Jah Man, 5.10, 3 pitches)

Sister Superior is probably the craziest looking tower of the bunch.  It sits across another knife-edge ridge from the rectory, and stands about 300 feet tall.  The route Jah Man goes straight up the broad face in the picture, and is stunning the entire way.  The route starts in an exciting and fun(?!) squeeze chimney, followed by a couple hundred feet of splitter hand and finger cracks to boot.  This climb, and especially the summit, are not to be missed.

Ancient Art:

I take my last comment back; Ancient art is probably the craziest looking tower of the bunch.  This tower composed mostly of (surprisingly solid) mud, sits in the middle of the mighty fisher towers.  These towers are giant freestanding mud curtains, and most of them hold climbs only for the die-hard mud lovers.  Ancient art is certainly the well-traveled exception, climbing 3 beautiful pitches of rock (and hardened mud) … to an absolutely insane corkscrew summit.  Standing on this summit is certainly the pinnacle moment of most rock climbers’ careers, looking down 400 feet on all sides and standing on a dinner-plate sized summit is an experience you will never forget.

River Road (Potash Road):

Potash road is the quintessential cragging area for budding sandstone samurais and hardened desert rats alike.  There are hundreds of climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.13 in this area, and they all sprout straight from the side of the road, making the commitment factor relatively low.  This is a great place to hone in your crack skills and chill in the sun, or push your limits and “send the gnar” … from techy slabs to pumpy tips cracks to man (or woman)-eating off-widths … Whatever it is you seek, potash road has something for you.

 So now that all of your soap operas have reached their season finales, and you have finally realized that climbing is much more fun than watching football, you have no excuse not to join us for some truly amazing desert adventures.  Call or email us today if you have any questions or would like to inquire about any of these trips.  See you all out there!

 -CBMG Guide Pat Erley

The USA Pro Cycling Challenge is coming to the Crested Butte area for two exiting days. With 16 pro international teams and the top three finishers from the Tour De France, the Inaugural USA Pro Cycling Challenge  is going to be one for the history books and a chance of a lifetime for spectators to see these crazy celebrities compete on American soil. Right here in Crested Butte!

The USAPCC is being touted as the most demanding bike race ever held on American Soil and being compared to the level and excitement of the Tour de France.  These world famous athletes will be reaching speeds of 60 miles an hour at elevations over two miles above the ocean in some of the most picturesque terrain in the world. Starting on August 22 the Americas Race will tour Colorado on a seven day, 600 mile long journey. Stage 1 will finish in Mt. Crested Butte on August 23 with the only uphill finish line of the tour. This will be the finish not to miss as the racers battle the final climb of the stage after 102 miles of racing. The excitement continues for the Crested Butte area on August 24^th with the Stage 2 start in Gunnison.  The tour will head up the Gunnison and Taylor Rivers valleys, over Cottonwood Pass then back over Independence pass to finish in Aspen.

Crested Butte Mountain Guides is offering a unique opportunity to be a part of the fun and excitement through  our “Chase The Race” Event.  After watching the spectacular Stage 1 finish in the town of Mt Crested Butte on Aug 23rd, take part in our inaugural ‘Chase The Race’ stage to watch the next day’s finish in downtown Aspen, CO. 

On August 24th, as Stage 2 of the USAPCC leaves Gunnison, CO to race over both Cottonwood & Independence Passes en-route to Aspen, we will follow in the tire treads of history, by riding from downtown Crested Butte over historic Pearl Pass, and on into downtown Aspen to catch the Stage 2 finish…… Chase The Race info

So mark your calendars to be in Crested Butte for August 23-24 and see the existent as these world famous athletes race for the title of the inaugural USA Pro Cycling Challenge! Then let Crested Butte Mountain Guides show you all the incredible recreational opportunities that make this place so amazing!

Out of the green and forested landscape of the Pacific Northwest rise unmistakable glaciated peaks, forming a ring of ancient volcanoes.  The pounding rain and proximity to the coast, combined with their towering height and prominence creates the perfect environment for heavy snowfall and glaciation.  These volcanoes are a truly special experience because they are the only mountains in the lower 48 that hold true glaciers.  These mountains require a special set of skills and training to be able to climb safely and successfully.   These skills include, but are not limited to:

-          Roped travel

-          Crevasse rescue

-          Navigation

-          Self and team arrest

-          Cramponing

-          Snow camping

This Fall, in a  last minute opportunity, Crested Butte Mountain Guides will guide a trip to the third tallest volcano in Washington, Mt. Baker.  Standing at 10,781 feet and containing ten large glaciers, Mt. Baker provides a wealth of climbing opportunities, whether you are training for larger goals or climbing your first glaciated peak. 

Crested Butte Mountain Guides will also teach glacier travel and alpine climbing clinics because of the unusually “fat” snowpack in the high mountains.  If you have interest in climbing Mt. Baker or just learning some new alpine snow climbing skills, this trip is a must-do.  The alpine skills clinic can be catered to any ability level and specific skills you want to learn, from cramponing to placing snow protection and lead climbing.  

All this to say we are sure your mind is on mountain biking and tanning in the sun, but everyone could use a little mid-summer winter in their lives, and there is no better time to book a trip than now!

Spring Creek Needle 5.6-5.8 Grade III

 The Spring Creek needle is one of my favorite routes to guide rockclimbing guests on.  The setting, climbing, and the scenery make it an unforgettable experience.  Perfect for adventurous beginners or seasoned veteran climbers.

The route starts with a cool log crossing over Spring Creek and continues with a short hike (less than 18 min) you are at the base.  From here we rope up and begin the climb, which is a mix of short and long pitches, face and crack climbing 4-6 pitches later we arrive at a true summit where the views are breathtaking ! A few rappels later you’re back on solid ground for the hike back to the base of the route. 

A truly unforgettable alpine climbing experience in the heart of the Taylor Canyon / Spring Creek Area…… not to be missed!

—Kyle Mattingly (CBMG Guide)