This past week, Randy Brooks and I headed down to the Crestone Needle in the Sangre De Cristo Range for 2-days of alpine mountaineering and a climb of one of Colorado’s most famous 14′ers.

Randy, hailing from San Angelo Texas, is well on his way to finishing his 14′er quest, as this was peak number 48 for him, and as some icing on the cake we spent his 45th birthday below the Needle’s imposing Northeast face camped at beautiful South Colony Lakes.

This was my first climb with Randy, and late spring snowstorms had combined to make the standard Southwest Face Route on the Crestone Needle a mixed alpine climbing bag of solid 3rd & 4th class rock, with snow and ice climbing skills necessary.

After a long and slow, but comfortable drive up the South Colony Road in Randy’s beautiful Land Rover we had a mellow hike to camp at South Colony Lakes where we spent the afternoon resting, acclimatizing, and preparing for the next day’s pre-dawn start.

Day 2 found us up and out of camp by 5 am, and dawned clear and sunny on us as we approached the initial difficulties of getting up to Broken HandPass under a beautiful sunrise. The rest of the climb of the Needle’s SW Face Route went smoothly with mixed sections of snow, ice , and rock, as I chose to do the more preferrable and direct but slightly harder line up the ‘east couloir’ all the way to the summit ridge and then a short exposed ridge walk section over to the summit. While this route is slightly harder (4th class) it is more aesthetic, quicker, and arguably safer.

A brief stint on the summit by 9am, had us turning around and descending under increasingly cloudier skies, and we made it safely back to camp by 12:30 after a fairly smooth and uneventful, but enjoyable and successful climb.

In camp we were greeted with a herd of local big horn sheep with babies in tow, where we hung out and took pictures before heading on out of the mountains and back to our respective homes.

Randy, thanks for a great day, and for sharing your 45th birthday with me. I hope your climbs of Mount Wilson & El Diente went as smoothly as ours did. Looking forward to climbing with you again.

—Jayson Simons-Jones (Your Guide)

We just wrapped up our 5-day Alpine Climbing Skills Clinic with Dean Kurth & Patrick Torosian, with two spectacular, big mountain days. Wednesday we tackled some technical snow climbs on Ruby Mountain (12,644′) & Mt. Owen (13,058′) and then yesterday had a capstone experience on the super aesthetic and technical “S Couloir” on Purple Peak (12,810′), to send them on their way feeling strong and more confident in their skills set and ability to tackle some more challenging and technical terrain on their own.

Wednesday, Dean & Patrick got their first taste of being ‘on their own’ by taking turns leading a steep snow climb up the South Face of Ruby Mountain. Here they put their new skills to use for the first time by taking turns on the sharp-end of the rope, placing snow protection, building snow anchors, and linking together multiple pitches of snow climbing. Then it was up the fairly mellow mixed rock and snow ridge to the 12,644′ summit of Ruby Mtn.

From there we descended of the North side and on up the slightly more challenging mixed snow and rock ridge to 13,058′ Mount Owen. An easier climb then the mornings’ route up Ruby, Patrick led us most of the way up the ridge route, across the steep and exposed snow fields at the false summit, and on the summit of a 13er ! On the way down in  the heat of the afternoon  sun we enjoyed some nice long (but wet) glissades down the bowl between the 2 peaks and the a short walk back to the car.

After a intense pace of 4-days of alpine climbing we decided to call a rest day before embarking on Purple Peak (12,810′) and a climb of it’s hidden and technical “S” Couloir Route as a capstone experience for these guys.

So….Friday morning we met at 6am and left early again for the fairly quick and direct walk on the morning’s frozen snow above treeline to the Scarp’s Ridge saddle over 12,000′ where we then descended down and around the North Face of Purple Peak to the bottom of the “S”. This route is one of the best snow climbs and steep spring ski descents in the entire Elk Mountain Range outside of Crested Butte, and us guides jump at the chance to get on it with anyone looking for a great mountaineering experience. This trip, however, was extra special, as Dean & Patrick were their primarily to put their skills together and do it mostly on their own, with me ‘ghost guiding’ just to prevent any catastrophic mistakes.

With that being said, they showed great progress in their skills from the previous climbs on Ruby & Owen, and swapped leads of steep snow climbing up the ever steepening and twisting route of the “S” Couloir. After 3 long pitches in which they demonstrated running belays, simul-climbing tactics, and belaying off snow anchors we reached the ridge fairly quickly just a  few hundred feet shy of the summit, where I took over the lead on the trickier and incredibly exposed mixed, snow, ice and rock ridge that leads to the summit.

The summit of Purple Peak (12,810′) our 5th of the trip, was no doubt the most rewarding of the week, as not only was it the hardest technically to climb, but it involved all 3 of us working together as a team more then just a standard guided ascent and thus it felt more rewarding for all of us….I know it certainly did for me watching these guys put to use all I they had learned over the course of the week.

Overall, it was a great week of alpine climbing skills, and Dean & Patrick walked away with a great improvement and development on their skill set, and are ready to tackle more challenging terrain on their own……keep practicing those knots boys…..

Thanks for a great week and looking forward to more climbing with you both in the future…

Your Guide — Jayson Simons-Jones

Today just wrapped up Day 3 of a 5-day intensive alpine mountaineering skills clinic w/ Dean Kurth & Patrick Torosian from Cincinnati, OH.

These  2 motivated gentleman have enlisted the expertise and instruction of Crested Butte Mountain Guides in our incredible backyard of the Elk Mountains, for a 5-day clinic and skills progression covering many of the basic alpine climbing and mountaineering skills of which to have a solid foundation to build from while tackling some of the world’s great mountains.

Dean comes to this clinic with years of lead rock-climbing experience on the infamously scary sandstone towers of the Garden of the Gods, but is fairly new to the world of alpine climbing and it’s associated snow, ice, and mixed rock and snow terrain.

Patrick has a background of successful summits of many big South American volcanoes, including Cotopaxi (19,347′) in Ecuador, yet is new to the world of rock climbing and placing traditional gear, building anchors, and the like.

So…..Crested Butte, what a perfect place for these two friends to get together and build upon what they each know, while also gaining some new skills, so as to forge a climbing partnership in the future.

Day 1: Taylor Canyon rock-climbing day. A great first day focusing on a basic introduction to placing rock protection, building rock anchors, different belay configurations, rappelling tactics and improving and practicing climbing skills.

Day 2: Mt. Crested Butte’s Guide’s Ridge. A super fun day in an incredible alpine setting getting to put together the basic rock climbing skills form Day 1 on an incredibly beautiful and exposed climb in the alpine realm, complete with a June mini-snow and hail storm for added dramatic effect.

Day 3: Mount Baldy’s Emerald Lake Couloir….an aesthetic, long (~2,000′), steep and challenging snow climb right from beautiful Emerald Lake at Schofield Pass to the summit of Mount Baldy in the heart of the Paradise Divide region of the Elk Mountains. A great venue w/ practically zero approach, of which to practice and implement crampon and ice axe use, rope work on steep  alpine snow climbs, snow anchors and running belays, and self-arrest skills.

So far we have had 3 long but fun and engaging days of alpine climbing skills, with great weather, incredible mountain environments and thoughtful and critical discussions and practices on the various skills workshops we have been covering.

Looking forward to bringing it all together over the next 2 days…..

-Your Guide…..

Jayson Simons-Jones

The summer season is knocking at the door here in Crested Butte, and before the guiding and managerial workload starts in earnest for the summer season I took advantage of a brief window this Sunday and got out of town to go visit our neighboring San Juan Mountains, a few hours drive to the South.

The weather here in the Rocky Mountains continues to be very spring-like with lots of rain and snow squalls, making for difficult to predict hiking, mountain-biking, and rockclimbing conditions close to town.

If you can’t beat ‘em join ‘em, right?… So we loaded the skis into the truck and armed with some beta on where the roads were plowed up to the trailheads, and the snow was still white and good, we headed south for a quick 24 hr ski and alpine climbing mission.

American Peak (13,806′) in the American Basin area below Handies Peak is famous for having lots of great steep couloirs for snow and ice climbing and skiing and allows high vehicle access to practically it’s base…so why not take advantage of the stormy weather.

Surrounded by 14er peak baggers headed for Handies Peak, we enjoyed complete solitude on it’s less famous but way more technical neighbor, and had a relatively quick approach hike in ski boots on the dry trail before being able to don skis and skins and head towards it’s eye-catching lines.

Great firm late-spring snow allowed for perfect alpine mountaineering conditions involving crampon and ice axe use, and we had our pick of multiple steep and challenging ski lines on American Peak’s north face.

The first couloir we chose was a fairly straight forward quick warm-up climb and ski before we began to work our way down the face and pick continually steeper and more challenging lines. The second was a beautiful steep and rock-walled couloir that felt like being in a giant rock-walled hallway, with perfect consistent pitch and snow conditions the entire way.

The third and final gem of the day, was a tad more alpine-esque in that it proved to be good mix of snow, ice, and rock, taking all types of alpine climbing & mountaineering skills and techniques, complete with an ice-climbing bulge and a near vertical rock wall finish in ski boots and crampons to reach the ridge just below the summit.

A perfect run of 1500′ of spring corn snow, brought us back to a quick dry walk to the car, and we were having beers on the tailgate by noon, before venturing back to Crested Butte for the evening.

American Basin is a great spot for quick and easy alpine access for either early season summer alpine snow and ice climbers, late season spring skiers looking for some challenging and quality lines, or the easy 14er climb in Handies Peak. Come check it out sometime….

—Jayson Simons-Jones (Owner / Lead Guide)